KANPUR Dehat district is just a few kilometers from Kanpur city, with its factories—though many of them are closed—and its malls and urban glitz. Kanpur city can lead people to believe, sometimes, that we have reached the 21st century. Kanpur can also breed the realisation of still being in the 20th century. And it has places, which can take us back to the 19th century. But yes, overall, the winds of the 21st century have started blowing in Kanpur.It is after you leave the city limits and enter the countryside that the previous centuries surround you on all sides.